LOS ANGELES TIMES
Owner John Ahonoukoun and Hostess Anne Verdier tout their crepe selection.
Photo by Michael Tov
CREPE CONNECTION
By Lorraine and Phil Shapiro
“Crepes are the specialty of the house,” said Cafe Marly’s
new owner John Ahonoukoun. Although a humorous statue of an
Asian waiter stands in front, the menu and ambiance are French
with Mediterranean excursions.
With rustic wooden tables, chairs with rattan seats and
some colorful French country art, the best tables are along the
back and side where banquettes are cushioned with toile pillows.
Ahonoukoun, originally from St. Tropez, altered the menu
slightly, adding his recipes. He’s proud of his savory and sweet
Britany crepes with a choice of filling or topping. You might
start with the Strasbourg—of ham or turkey with cheese and
tomato, Vegetarian, or La Reine filled with caramelized onion,
chicken, mushrooms, bechamel sauce and Swiss cheese, from $6.50.
Dessert crepes (recipe given), folded into a wedge, may be
simply topped with butter and sugar, jam-filled or with sliced
banana, whipped cream and chocolate, the Parisian favorite of
chocolate hazelnut cream or Grand Marnier (Suzette), from $3.50.
“For those who would like
to relax after work, visit our new St. Tropez lounge, with a
south of France spirit,” Ahonoukoun enthused. With a grand
opening on April 4th, beer, wine, Champagne and a light buffet
of tapenade, quiche, aioli with vegetables and surprises are
available 5 to 7 p.m. weekdays. The buffet is $7. Black and
white French films will screen.
Don’t expect “le fast food” at busy lunchtimes, but salads
arrive promptly. Similar in concept to Salade Nicoise, Chicken
Salad Marly is a teepee of baby greens, green beans and
hardcooked egg with grilled chicken, at $8.50. Salmon Salad
Marly teams staples of green beans, tomato, olives and potatoes
with baked Atlantic salmon on spinach and arugula, at $9.50.
Panini, made with fresh baguettes, are especially nice,
accompanied by salad or French fries, from $6.50. The Napoli
panino, layering chicken, gorgonzola, avocado and tomato is well
liked, at $7.95. Hamburgers are popular, too, at $7.50.
Heartier eaters get combinations pairing Onion Soup with
Garden Salad, another featuring a Half Quiche, Soup and Garden
Salad, or Half Sandwich, Soup and Salad, at $9.95.
French Onion soup differs from the classic, using chicken
broth thickened with French bread and topped with melted cheese,
at $5.50. The Soup du Jour of pureed tomato is light in style,
prepared without cream, at $4.95.
Cafe Marly is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to
9 p.m., Sunday 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. 9669 Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly
Hills. 310- 271-7274.
CAFE MARLY–STYLE DESSERT CREPES – (Makes about 14 small
crepes)
2 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 cup milk
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
Beat eggs with whisk. Gradually beat in vanilla, butter
and milk. Combine flour and sugar, gradually add to egg mixture,
beating well. Cover, refrigerate 2 hours. Heat 8-inch skillet,
coat with oil. Pour in a little batter, rapidly swirl skillet to
lightly coat bottom. Return to heat; when top looks dry and
edges browned, cook other side. Turn onto clean towel. Repeat.
Serve filled or topped. If made ahead, stack crepes between
waxed paper, wrap in plastic or foil. Refrigerate or freeze.
When you find a restaurant which can only be described as a “gem” you are in culinary heaven. Small intimate eateries where the owner is on board overseeing the kitchen are a dining “find” and always in demand. Cafe Marly is exactly such a place. Great prices, with a gourmet fare. The creative menu is filled with French favorites, and the daily special is guaranteed to be a pleasing addition to your day. The crepes are filled to brimming with delicious fillings and there are sweet crepes for dessert. But one of the best things about Cafe Marly is the wonderful baguettes and fresh breads that add so much to a sandwich and to any soup and salad. The paninis are perfect with the soup. The salads are wonderful and offer different mixes that will become your immediate favorites. Try the Salade Paysanne, which is a mix of Frisee, Lardons, Mushrooms, potatoes and poached egg. Or there’s the Belgian endive, apples and walnuts with the house vinaigrette, which is a wonderful light luncheon choice. If you love French Onion Soup, this one’s a winner, and the shepherd’s pie is an authentic and delicious re-creation of this old classic comfort food. So if you are looking for a great place to have a light and unique meal, try Cafe Marly and you will become a fan.
Walking around the wonderful Affaire in the Garden Art Show a few weeks ago, I was struck by how many people were enjoying a kisch. When I asked where they had found this culinary delight, they replied Cafe Marly. No surprise because Cafe Marly is fast becoming one of Beverly Hills’ favorite eateries. The sandwiches, crepes and desserts are incredible and it is truly a taste of France in our town. It’s always great to have a place that serves great food at great prices, yet makes you feel you are eating gourmet fare. Cafe Marly is just such a place. The creative menu is filled with French favorites, and the daily special is guaranteed to be a pleasing addition to your day. The crepes are filled to brimming with delicious fillings and there are sweet crepes for dessert. But one of the best things about Cafe Marly is the wonderful baguettes and fresh breads that add so much to a sandwich and to any soup and salad. The paninis are perfect with the soup. The salads are wonderful and offer different mixes that will become your immediate favorites. Try the Salade Paysanne, which is a mix of Frisee, Lardons, Mushrooms, potatoes and poached egg. If you love French Onion Soup, this one’s a winner and the shepherd’s pie is an authentic and delicious recreation of this old classic comfort food. So if you are looking for a great place to have a light and unique meal, try Cafe Marly and you will become a fan.